| The starting point, one plain looking A3 instrument cluster. |  |
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On the back of the cluster, you will need to remove the 8 screws. They use a T10 torx fitting. |
| With the screws removed, you can now seperate the 2 halves. |  |
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Now you have access to the four face plates. |
| To remove the needles, slip 2 butterknives under the base of the needle, one knife on each side of the shaft that the needle sits on. Then twist the knives in opposite directions so that the needle is popped straight up and off of the shaft. |  |
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The speedometer and tach each have 2 plastic "rivets" that help hold them in place, shown here are 2 of the 4 rivets. They will need to be drilled out. |
| First drill a 1/16" or 5/64" pilot hole in the rivets, then carefully drill the remaining head off the rivets with a 1/8" drill bit. |  |
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Once you have the rivets removed, slip a butterknife under the face plate and gently pop the faceplate off of the gauge cluster body. The center hole is sort of snapped onto the main body. |
| You may need to enlarge the center hole of the speedometer and tach face plates a little bit. I was able to do this by hand using a 9/32" drill bit. You should be able to fit the face plate back onto the main body without using much force. |  |
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Now you can trim out the 4130 Gauge Overlays. Use a quality pair of sissors when doing this. |
| Once you have the 4130 Gauge Overlay trimmed out, carefully line it up on the face plate, making sure the pip marks line up. Then use a small piece of tape to tape the bottem edge of the 4130 Gauge Overlay to the face plate. |  |
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Flip the 4130 Gauge Overlay over and remove the protective backing from it. |
| Starting at the bottom, make sure the pip marks are still lined up and apply the 4130 Gauge Overlay to the face plate and work your way to the top. |  |
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Use the face plate as a guide when trimming out the holes. Always use a fresh sharp tip when doing this, a dull tip can tear the overlay instead of cutting though it. Good rule of thumb, once you trim a hole out, snap that tip off and start the next hole with a fresh tip. |
| Almost home, do the same to the other face plate. |  |
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For the water temp and gas gauge, trim the 4130 Gauge Overlays out, then place them on the face plate and line the pip marks up. With the tip of your finger, press down a little where the needle shaft is to make a dimple in the overlay. Then using the razor blade, cut the dimple mark out. |
| Remove the protective backing from the 4130 Gauge Overlay and apply it to the gas and water temp gauges. Use a soft towel to help firmly press the 4130 Gauge Overlay into place. If needed, trim the hole around the needle shaft a little. Do not let the overlay touch the needle base when it is installed. |  |
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There are 2 diffent ways you can mount the speedometer and tach face plates back onto the main body. You can use #4 X 3/8" screws at the 2 lower mounting points of the tach and speedometer. The screws I had, the heads of them where too large and the 2 halves of the gauge cluster would not sit flush, so I only used one screw on the tach and one on the speedometer. If you don't have screws, then super glue will work great. It doesn't take too much. Super glue is how I did my wife's A3 gauge cluster when I installed 4130 Overlays on it. |
| Put the 2 halves back together and screw the 8 torx screws back into place. You're done. |  |
Why should you send a postcard? Because it is cheap to do and as we all know, the US Post Office is funding it's Super Muntant Army Project with fees from postcards stamps. I would really like to see a Super Muntant Army deliever my mail in the near future.
Thank you.
